Installing an AR-15 Forward Assist into a Stripped Upper

AR 15 Forward Assist Install
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Installing an AR-15 Forward Assist into a Stripped Upper is pretty simple.  You don’t need much more than the parts a small punch and a hammer.  A file makes it easier, but it is not strictly necessary.

One thing to look out for when installing the forward assist is that it only works one way.  You must ensure the assist is orientated so that the tooth on the assist fits into the notches in the Bolt carrier so it will ratchet it closed when depressed.

AR-15 Forward Assist Parts:

  • Stripped AR-15 Upper
  • Forward Assist
  • Forward Assist Spring
  • Roll pin

I start the roll pin, but I don’t put it in deep enough to pass into the tube the assist rides in.  Running a file to dress the roll pin makes it easier to start.  If you have a roll pin holder you don’t need to do this.

Next I put the spring on the forward assist and drop the forward assist and spring in so that the cut out is orientated to catch on the roll pin.

Finish tapping in the roll pin and to make it catch the roll pin so it is not able to back out.

Finally, insert the Bolt carrier and latch and test your install by checking to see if the forward assist pushes the BCG forward.

Installing an AR-15 Single Point Sling Mount

Installing an AR-15 Single Point Sling Mount

How to install an AR-15 Dust Cover
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In this post I will show how I go about Installing an AR-15 Single Point Sling Mount.  This is an easy project that a new AR-15 owner can complete with little experience.

I think it is an easy thing to add to the gun, and even if you don’t always use a single point sling you can keep it without adding a lot of clutter and weight.

Personally I prefer a 2 point sling based upon my marksmanship training in the Marines, but many people prefer the one point sling.

To do this modification you don’t need much in the way of tools, but you will need a buffer tube wrench which is a specialty tool tool made for an AR-15.

Installing an AR-15 Single Point Sling Mount

  • First remove the stock.  In the one I have there is a long screw that holds it in place, others have a nut around the buffer tube.
  • As you remove the stock beware that there is a long skinny spring that holds the detent pin for your rear take-down.
    • Don’t let that spring shoot out or get kinked up.
  • Unscrew the buffer tube,
  • Next add your AR-15 Single Point Sling Mount it goes between the lower and the buffer tube.
  • Screw your buffer tube back in.  Take care to ensure you do not cross thread the fine aluminum threads.
  • As you must take care that the spring that holds the detent pin is pressed in straight and it does not get kinked.
  • Tighten the buffer tube hand tight.
  • Screw on the castle nut snug using the buffer tube wrench.

Why a Single Point Sling?

To conclude,  I don’t think a single point sling is appropriate for all occasion.  Most times I thing a two point sling is better.  However they work well when you are working around vehicles.  It allows you to drop the gun and go “hands on” without losing your gun.  However, a single point sling it is worthless for carrying a gun long term while hiking.  Finally, it does not support the rifle while shooting like a 2 point sling can.

Installing a YHM Spectre Two Piece AR-15 Gas Block

 

Installing a YHM Spectre Two Piece AR-15 Gas Block
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Two part gas blocks are not needed in the majority of instances, they are more complicated and a little more expensive than the standard gas blocks.

However, sometimes they serve a purpose.  Today I need to install a YHM Spectre Two Piece AR-15 Gas Block because I plan on permanently attaching a large flash hider to a barrel and I will not be able to slide the gas block off if I ever need to change barrels.

By welding on a flash suppressor the gas block cannot slide off, this means i cannot change or repair my gas system.

This is really the only reason I can see for a block like this.

It needs an Allen key and roll pins to install.  You also need a vise and a vise block to support the upper as the gas tube is pinned into the gas block.

The only difference between installing this two piece AR-15 gas block and a regular one piece gas block is that it does not slide on, it fits over the barrel and the four Allen keys are tightened to clamp the block to the barrel.

When tightening the Allen keys be sure to tighten them like you would with a tire.  Alternate the bolts and don’t got 1,2,3,4.

How to Install Elfman Tactical Anti-Rotation Pins in an AR-15 Lower

How to Install Elfman Tactical Anti-Rotation Pins in an AR-15 Lower

 

How to install an AR-15 Dust Cover
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Anti-Rotation Pins are normally not a necessary modification to an AR-15 lower, but their are some exceptions.  What the pins do is prevent the hammer and trigger pins in the AR-15 (or M-16) from rotating.  A steel pin in an aluminum receiver can rotate and elongate the holes.  This causes malfunctions and the destruction of a lower.

Normally the design of the pins prevents this, and a new lower doesn’t cost much more than the pins.  However, many people that own registered pre-1986 lowers for fully automatic AR pattern rifles add them because their lowers are irreplaceable.  If their lowers pins elongate they lost a machine gun.

I add one on my polymer lower because the hammer pins on mine wallowed out after less than a magazine worth of rounds.

One thing about installing the Elfman Tactical Anti-Rotation Pins in a freedom15 polymer AR-15 Lower, there is a strengthening rib molded on the lower that you will need to chisel off in order to install the anti-rotation pin.  It was not hard to do, but took a sharp chisel and permanently altered the lower.

I used to link directly to the item on Amazon so you could purchase it easily, but they have, in their infinite liberalism decided to remove firearm parts as they find them – they did this with tannerite also.

Emergency Food Bar Recipe

How to Make an Emergency Food Bar

Recipe: Emergency Food Bar
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Emergency food needs to be shelf stable and contain needed nutrients. It is a plus if the food tastes good, is light weight, and not very expensive.

This was not the easiest project to achieve, and I had to test many different recipes until I settled on this particular one.

This particular food bar recipe makes a hard biscuit that is reminiscent of both hardtack and the commercial Datrex bar. It is not a gourmet meal, but it is light and if stored properly can last for well over one year.

This is a very simple recipe, and the base recipe I used can be found on many websites. I found that by modifying the recipe and making small “cakes” instead of the more common loaf makes the food bar much easier to eat and handle.

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups oats (quick or flaked oats work equally well)
  • 2 1/2 cups powdered milk
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 3 TB honey
  • 1 3 oz package jello (orange or lemon)
  • 3 TB water

Equipment:

  • Bowl
  • Measuring cup
  • Spoon
  • Saucepan
  • Parchment paper
  • Cookie Sheet
  • Aluminum foil or plastic bag

Procedure:

  1. Mix the oats, powdered milk, and sugar together in a bowl
  2. In a medium pan mix 3 tablespoons of water, one package of jello and 3 tablespoons of honey. Bring to a rolling boil. Due to the small amount of water and the high amount of sugar, this recipe is very sweet. If you use flavors other than lemon or orange you may find this bar to be TOO sweet.
  3. Add jello mixture to dry ingredients. Mix well. If the dough is too dry, add a small amount of water a teaspoon at a time.
  4. Do not use too much water because this bar only works if it is bone dry.
  5. The mixing process involves work, mixers aren’t strong enough and you will have to use your hands and arms.
  6. Preheat oven to 3500F
  7. Most food bar recipes have you shape the well mixed dough into loaves at this point. I found that rolling the dough into ping pong sized balls that are then smashed into flat disks the end product is much handier and easier to eat.
  8. Bake your bars at 3500F degrees for 10-15 minutes. (If your making al oaf time is more like 20 minutes). You are not trying to cook the recipe, but rather dry it. I find that by propping the oven door open slightly you get a dryer bar (the dryer the bar the safer you are from food borne illnesses like botulism – and the bar will store longer).

Alternatively, you may want to cook for 10 minutes and then place in a dehydrator until completely dry.

Let cool completely.

Wrap in aluminum foil to store. Another benefits of the disk shape is they can be rolled like coins.

If you want to store these in your car or bug-out bag it would be a good idea to seal these in a vacuum bag after you put them in aluminum foil

Yield:

This recipe equals approximately 2000 calories which is the caloric needs for an average adult