Quick and Easy Tips to Make Sure Your Household is Prepared

Emergency Management Principles for Prepping

Emergency Management Principles for Prepping
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Just like everybody else, I am unique. In the disaster prepper field I am unique in that I am both a diehard personal prepper and a college trained emergency management professional. I did not become one because of the other; my personal preparedness mindset comes from my parents, as well as my internal system of ethics and belief structure.

My career path grew out of my military and correction background. However, even though they are separate, I find that my skills in one translate to the other even though the goals of the two are not always identical.

I would like to take a few moments and describe how you can take government emergency management doctrine and personalize it as well as scale it to your needs.   Here is information on how to use emergency management principles for prepping.

The first thing I grabbed from my training manuals to apply to my personal emergency plan is the all hazards approach. I have seen people jump into panic mode over single issue events like Y2K, 2012, New Madrid, CME, or whatever is going to kill us all on exactly 12 pm Sunday whatever…. These people then run around and throw money at their fear, and then feel taken when whatever disaster failed to occur. But just like government evacuation orders – If they call for an evacuation, and people leave, but nothing happens, the next time nobody wants to evacuate. In the case of Y2K so many people that prepped for it, that once it did not happen they now have a bad taste in their mouths about prepping and won’t “fall for that again”. With an all hazards approach, rather than spend all your energy prepping for a specific event, you build capabilities that help with ANY event. As I tell my students, When your doing CPR on me, I don’t care if my heart stopped because I was electrocuted, was shot, or ate too many hamburgers with too little exercise – I just want you to keep pumping…

The next thing I took was the cyclical nature of disaster and the 5 phases of emergency management. You have a planning phase where perform a risk assessment and then make plans based upon your threats and hazards. Once you begin planning, you move into the preparedness phase where the planning takes shape – you take training to better prepare. The lists you wrote in the planning phase become deep larders and tangible goods. Along with preparedness and planning you need to worry about mitigation. What can you do to make the disaster either less likely or less disruptive? Personally I have to plan for the New Madrid Earthquake, so I make sure my water heater is strapped down, and my shelves of glass mason jars are secured so that the jars cannot fall off and break. Appropriate amounts of insurance are a mitigation step we all can get. When disaster strikes (We don’t know WHAT or WHEN it will happen, but rest assured you will have an emergency at some point in your life) you enter the response phase where you have to deal with your incident priorities of

1. Life Safety (Pull the people from the burning building)
2. Incident Stabilization (Keep the fire from getting worse and spreading)
3. Property Conservation (Put the fire out and save as much of the building as possible)
4. Environmental Conservation (Keep the runoff of water from polluting the creek)

Once the emergency phase is over, recovery mode begins. At some point you have to get back to normal. Even if it’s a catastrophic event that ends in TEOTWAWKI, you have to create a new normal. It’s critical to understand that these phases blend into each other and the lessons learned from one disaster turn into the planning phase to improve your plan. But keeping the cyclical nature in mind, as you create a plan of action based upon your most reasonable estimate of your hazards you need to test and refine, then retest and refine some more. The more you sweat now, the less you bleed later.

Mutual Aid Agreements and Memorandums of Understands is common among government jurisdictions and agencies. During a disaster everybody wants to help, but knowing who is responsible for what and what their capabilities are is very helpful. Its also important to spell out how damaged or used equipment gets replaced. Two weeks into a multi year grid down disaster is not the time to get into a fight with your neighbor over who gets to use the tractor first. Of course OPSEC is a priority, but no man is an island. The time to network is now.

Have a plan, but be willing to scrap the plan if it does not work. I tell my students that before you can think outside the box, you better understand everything about the box. The very act of planning helps with response. The more you think about your capabilities and what you would do in situations the better prepared your brain is to react flexibly to a situation. Your mind is a wonderful creation, but you have to program it to work. If you’re worried about disasters your program it by creating disaster response plans.

The last concept of emergency management I will share today is incident command. This system came out of the California wildfires in the 70’s. Military vets turned fire jumpers created a management system called fire scope to deal with the rapidly changing fire situations. After the attacks on 9/11 the lack of communication, coordination, and chain of command was identified as areas we needed improvement on. ICS was then adopted as the national standard and all responders in all disciplines were mandated to be trained to a basic level. Free training in the incident command system is available online at the FEMA training website. The ICS system is a flexible system geared toward emergency events. This flexibility is derived from a few essential concepts:

• There is only ONE overall commander.
• The incident commander is responsible for everything, but can delegate roles to qualified staff based upon incident complexity and size
• Span of control for optimal leadership is 5-7 individuals under a supervisor.
• Everybody reports to only one supervisor, and everyone knows who their supervisor is.

Obviously there is more to the system, but it allows anyone trained in incident command to rapidly integrate themselves into the command structure because it has clear roles and responsibilities. Knowledge of this system is important because EVERY responder has been trained in this system and it will provide the basis of ANY response. It does not matter if your dealing with a volunteer fireman or a military civil support team, any agency with a role in emergency response has to have this training to receive federal funding. While I don’t agree with the mandate, I have seen this system work several times, and the disasters I have worked that were not as successful as others also deviated from the plan more than the others.

The more you understand about the ICS system the more you will know what to expect from the government. The other reason you should learn about this system is that it works if you apply the fundamentals. It does not matter if you’re working in a government agency, a local neighborhood preparedness group, or a family these concepts are timeless and reduce confusion.

Besides concepts and theory on emergency management FEMA has also created many courses in disaster preparedness. Many of these are geared to first responders, but at this time, most of them are available free of charge to civilians. If you visit the FEMA training website the Emergency Management Institute (EMI) has a distant study program, and has classes in Radiological Response, Hazardous Materials, Guides to Disaster Assistance, Active Shooters, Dam Failure – literally almost any aspect of interest to Federal emergency officials. I have personally taken several hundred hours worth of their courses and while distance education is not as good as hands on with a qualified instructor, the materials are a very handy and inexpensive resource to put back in your binder.

For neighborhood organization and home preparedness, don’t overlook the Citizens Emergency Response Teams. I wish this program would have caught on in more areas, but you can download the training materials for free without any sort of login or identification.

Knowledge is power, and by taking the concepts our federal government has spent billions developing and testing in real life incidents in both large and small scale will give you a head start in creating and employing your own personal preparedness plan.

How to Pull Bullets The 2 Best Methods

How to Pull Bullets: The 2 Best Methods

 

How to Pull Bullets: The 2 Best Methods
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Some Shooters like to reload, so do many preparing for TEOTWAWKI or WROL, it’s also a skill for those like to DIY or roll their own.  Many of the types of people that visit my sight reload themselves or are interested in it.  Therefore, I am going to start publishing articles on reloading and reviews on some of the equipment I have.

That being said, I am a relative novice with reloading.  I do hold instructor credentials in this field, but I stick to published loads and am pretty conservative when it comes to reloading as I don’t like unplanned explosions….

Before we do any serious reloading I want to cover one thing very well, you are going to have waste, you’re going to have mistakes, and your going to have to be able to take ammunition apart – mostly to recover components, but also to prevent anyone from attempting to shoot your goofs.  This post will show the two main ways of how to take apart your mistakes – otherwise know as How to Pull Bullets

There are two main ways of pulling bullets from their case, and each has individual’s drawbacks and benefits so you would be wise you invest in equipment to do both.

The cheapest and simplest way to deconstruct ammunition is to use an inertial puller.

Inertial Puller

How to Pull Bullets
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This is basically a plastic hammer with a hollow head.  One end unscrews and the cartridge is placed bullet down inside a special collet and the end screws back on tightening the collet on the head of the cartridge.

When the puller is smacked briskly down on a block of wood the cartridge stops moving, but the law of inertia makes the heavier bullet to want to continue to move.  With enough raps of the hammer the bullet will eventually slide out of the cartridge case and be collected in the hammer head along with any powder that was inside the case.

The collet is made out of three small pieces of metal and a small rubber band, and some reloaders find it to be pain in the neck to use, some resourceful reloader began using shell holders instead of the collets and the trend caught on UNTIL a couple shells detonated in the puller.

ANYWAY, this should not turn you away from inertia pullers, just using them incorrectly.

This type of puller costs around $15-$20 and works best with pistol calibers with heavier bullets.  Bullets like .223 or with a heavy crimp may not come out at all, or at least without a lot of effort.  For cartridges of that type you may need a collet puller.

Collet Puller

How to Pull Bullets
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A collet puller screws into your press just like a die, and is used in much the same way.

The round is placed in the ram’s shell holder and then raised into the collet die.  The collet is then tightened around the bullet and the ram is lowered.  This separates the case from the bullet.

You get much more mechanical leverage this way.  It works on rounds that cannot be broken down with the inertial puller.  The powder also stays in the casing, unlike in the inertial puller.  This lets you recover it more easily.  If your doing a lot of deconstruction, this method is faster than the inertial puller.  You must be careful or you can tighten the collet too tightly on the round.  This leaves either “pull marks” or is may change the size or shape of the bullet.

A collet puller starts around $15.00.  Unfortunately, you will have to buy a collet for each diameter of round want to pull.  A collet costs around $10.00.

Personally I like my inertial puller the best when I am only doing one or two rounds.  It is fast and not a hassle to set up.  However, when I have a lot of rounds to dismantle, I use the collet puller.

 

How to Build a 12 Volt Chlorine Generator for Water Purification

 

DIY Chlorine Generator for Water Purification
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The way I approach prepping is that I have a list of tiers of preparedness, and I try follow a consistent approach of not jumping tiers for specific sections until all sections on a tier are filled (This is flexible based upon situational factors).

In my Defense tier, I would really like to have .45 Camp Carbine with an integral suppressor and mounted thermal imaging. If I spent my resources on that and only had a CB radio and a 72 hour kit as my only other preps, then I would not be spending my resources wisely.

It is most cost effective to buy a year supply of food using the LDS list before you spend twice as much on a 3 month supply of freeze dried food.

Water Purification is Important

That being said, you might have noticed I am on a water purification kick. Some of that is that I have noticed the amount of water I have been using on livestock and gardening.  Some is that I realize its impossible to store water for an extended period due to space and weight issues.  The third reason is that I ended a preparedness tier with my Calcium hypochlorite prep.  One small purchase game me the ability to disinfect approx 50k gallons of water.  It is easiest to start the next tier on water since that’s what I have been researching lately.

What is a Chlorine Generator

Today’s project is a device used to create a practically inexhaustible supply water purification chemicals.  Basically, it make the same disinfecting solution as the calcium hypochlorite makes. You might ask why I went through the trouble of buying the HTH pool shock if I had planned all along to make a device that does the same thing.  Especially considering the storage considerations of the corrosive chemical. Well, the pool shock is does not need an energy input to work. I cannot break it.  Additionally, I bought a lifetime supply for under $25.00.

The DIY Chlorine Generator for Water Purification is also called a Chlorine Producing Unit (CPU) I am about to show you works very well, but it requires 12 volt electric input, uses expensive and technologically advanced electrodes and cost a little over twice as much to make.

I have found that American missionaries that work in the third world are an excellent supply of information in what some call “appropriate technology” This is people centered, small scale, labor intensive, energy efficient, environmentally sound devices and processed. It’s a lot like “Macgyverisms” from my favorite 80’s TV show. He had advanced knowledge and primitive supplies and was able to cobble together 1900’s level tech with modern scientific principles.

One famous example of this is the CD3WD which is a collection of appropriate tech, Travis Hughley and barrelponics (which I AM going to build one day) and Safe Water International Ministries the developers of the CPU that is the focus of today’s article.

SWIM has developed the CPU to provide a chlorinating solution for water disinfection in third world countries. I would highly recommend you check out their website and consider donating to their mission as they are doing wonderful work.

Comes in a Complete Kit Also

If you want a CPU, but don’t have a DIY gene or interest in building one yourself, SWIM sells complete CPU tool box kit which includes an instruction card, a chlorine test kit, 2 mixing bottles, a salt measuring cup, and a couple of solution droppers. All you need to provide is 12 volts of electricity, salt, and water. A donation of $150 to their ministry would support this kit.

I wanted to turn this into a project so I gave a $50 donation and received the anode and cathode from them. They will email you the plans for free if you contact them on the website, and they have a technology link online with the instruction manual and a basic lesson plan for teaching this to others. I will warn you, the cathode and anodes are the main expense in the CPU, and you may have a hard time finding a supplier. One is a titanium mesh; the other is a mixed metal oxide (ruthenium).

However, I must tell you that their primary mission is to provide these units for missionary work in third world countries, so if demand causes a supply backlog, I would imagine they would fill that need first.

Basically what happens is when you bridge the electrodes with a salt water solution and apply an electrical charge to them you start a chemical reaction called electrolysis. In this particular process the water bubbles and produces a caustic chlorine solution roughly half as strong as laundry bleach. After the 9/11 attacks many municipal water treatment plants converted to this process so that they could remove their one ton chlorine gas tanks from their sites to mitigate their attractiveness as a terrorist target.

Per the SWIM for Him website the directions for use are:

  1. Mix salt & water solution ( approx. ¼ cup salt to 16 oz water)
  2. Connect wires to 12 volt source (negative, or black, to negative; positive, or red, to positive)
  3. Pour the saltwater solution through the CPU into another bottle (observe the bubbling process)
  4. Carefully repeat the pour-through process 5 times.
    1. This is different from a chlorate cell as that the water free flows through the unit which does not allow chlorates or perchlorates to form. This process operates at a different voltage and a much lower temperature.
  5. Unhook the battery wires.
  6. Rinse the CPU by pouring clean water through it.
  7. Add 10 drops of the solution for each gallon of drinking water.
  8. Wait one hour before drinking.

It works with Solar Also

Additionally, if you are using solar power to charge your battery, you will want to recharge it for 3-5 hours after this process to ensure it is fully charged.

You will also need a test kit to ensure you use enough chlorine solution to properly sanitize your water supply.

This was a very simple project and I built the device in under an hour, I have to wait about 24 hours for the sealant to set, and then another 30 minutes in finishing touches. Please watch the video below to see all the steps.

 

Build a Parabolic Solar Heater With an Old TV Dish

How to Build a Parabolic Solar Heater

 

Build a Parabolic Solar Heater With an Old TV Dish
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My last tenants got direct TV without asking me, that’s not so bad, but they set this big metal post in concrete right at the edge of my house. I don’t like it, but I really did not want to grub out this post. Rather than rip it out, I re-purposed it to make a parabolic solar heater

I am a fan of solar energy, especially when its limitations are accounted for. Through research, I have decided that the heating aspects of solar is easier to utilize than converting it to electricity.  Its also much cheaper.

A man that has done quite a bit of work in this area is Dan Rojas of Green Power Science.  He has done quite a few projects that I admire and plan on emulating.  He also sells some supplies for these projects and that where I bought the solar film I used in this project

Re-purposing a Direct TV Dish

What I did was dismantle the Direct TV dish and sand it smooth, I then painted it with black paint (and should have sanded that smooth also).

I cut strips of the mirror film and attached them to the dish.  Its easiest to just cut straight strips and overlap them slightly.  Early cartographers learned that it is impossible to draw a round earth accurately on a flat sheet of paper, its the same with the film and a parabolic dish.  You cannot just slap the film to the dish, it will bubble up and refuse to form to the shape.  Some try to calculate the curve and cut out “pie” slices, but this works best in theory, the math works, but it does not translate well to the real world.  Strips that are allowed to slightly overlap each other works the easiest.

You will find its impossible to separate the thin strip of film from its backing by hand.  Mr. Rojas suggested to use slap a piece of tape to both sides of the film (at the end of the strip, and don’t let your tape strips touch).  When you do this the film and the backer adhere to the tape so when you pull the tape in opposite directions the film will peel away.

Its a lot like Window Tint

Very carefully install the film on your dish, if you have ever installed window tint, its the exact same process.  I started in the center and worked outward, as this was easiest for me.  I imagine it does not make a big difference.  Just try not to overlap the strips too much, don’t allow bubbles to form, and don’t get two worried about the holes for the mounting bracket.

After the strips filled the dish, I took a very sharp razor knife and cut a cross into the area of the mounting bracket holes.  This allows the screws to be inserted back into the dish.  I also trimmed around the edges of the dish.

For some reason (dust and a bad paint job most likely) the film did not want to stick at the edges.  I had planned on running around the center of the dish with tape for decorative purposes, but I ended up doing it to help hold the film down.

Reinstall the Dish and Focus the sun on the Jar

I then reinstalled the dish on the post (don’t just leave it there, the focused sunlight can be dangerous – so don’t leave it unattended for long periods).  Pointed it a the sun, and rigged a empty glass jar at the focal point.

The sunlight then heats whatever is in the jar.  You can use this to cook.  I have seen this on a large scale to boil water, and even make steam.  In California, Rojas’s dish actually burned a wood board.  I was not patient enough for that, but it did heat the jar uncomfortably hot.  (it was about 4pm in the afternoon, and there are a lot of trees in my neighbor’s yard, so that contributed to the heat difference.)

I plan on working with this a little more, and seeing how effective this can be to cook.  Who knows, I may even come up with some recipes.