I want to take a couple minutes to show you a redundant fire starting method that is cheap, tiny, and easy. We are going to make a DIY Keychain Ferrocerium Rod using welder striking tips.
If you are a welder, plumber, or anyone who uses torches, you are no doubt familiar with friction sparkers. They are used to light propane or acetylene torches.
What makes the sparkers work are small ferrocerium rods that are held in a small threaded brass fitting. These rods are replaceable. Normally when you buy a sparker you get 5 or 6 of them in the package.
I went to Wal-Mart and bought a new torch sparker for about $5.00. Next, I then put one of the replacement tips in my drill press and drilled it out with a small drill bit.
The fitting was brass. Drilling it out was not hard at all.
I then threaded it on my keychain.
It weights fractions of an ounce – only a couple of grains (4,000 grains to a pound) and is tiny enough not to get in the way.
But now I have a waterproof, EMP proof, never run out of gas way to get a spark under almost any condition.
Ice packs are a very useful item to keep around. Today’s article will show you how to make your DIY cold pack of your own using a foodsaver bag and some simple household ingredients.
If you don’t have a vacuum sealer, then you can use zippered freezer bags, but it will be more prone to leaking.
Making a DIY Cold Pack
Besides bags, you will need water, alcohol, and food coloring.
Mix 2 parts water by volume with one part alcohol (rubbing or drinking)
Add a couple drops of food coloring to the alcohol mix so you can tell its not water.
Add the colored liquid to your bag, and then close it.
The alcohol will keep the water from completely freezing, but It will actually be colder than ice.
This works great, and the coloring lets you know when you have a leak.
This works well, but I still like my store-bought ice pack. I don’t use this DIY cold pack often, but knowing how to do it lets me make one whenever I need, which is quite useful.
As I said in the start of this article, if you don’t have to use a sealer bag, doubled zip locks work well also. They just are a little more prone to leak. However, I figure if you are using a cold pack, you are probably sitting still somewhere…
I first saw this on YouTube, from a user called fubarprotocol and I had to try make a DIY Handgun rack myself.
Basically this project is a strip of hardwood with ¼ metal rods inserted in it and covered with heat shrink tube so that you can hand your pistols up by their bore.
I think this works really great, and makes it easy to get to my guns. Fubar bolted his in his safe, but I have mine in my workroom. I don’t store my guns on the rack, but keep them there when cleaning them after a range visit, or organizing my equipment for a class.
Strip of hardwood, I used a 1 x 2 strip of hardwood from the hobby section at Lowes.
¼ rod
¼ heat shrink tubing
¼ plastic end protectors (I found them in the metal drawers in the Lowes hardware section where you get odd shaped nuts and connectors.
Procedure
I marked and countersunk mounting holes one inch from the ends, and at the center
Starting 2 inches from the end I marked holes for the rod every 4 inches (you may want to space more or less depending on the size of your guns.
Drill the holes, I drilled them slightly smaller than the ¼ rod.
I countersunk the rod holes on the back of the board so that I could epoxy them in so they would not work loose.
Next cut the rods into 6 inch lengths and round one end with a grinder.
Pound the rods into the board, keeping everything flush and straight.
Fix the rods with epoxy.
Sand, paint, or stain board as you desire
Cut strips of heat shrink to fit rods.
Insert, trim, and heat the shrink tube so that they fit tightly on the rod.
Superglue rod tips to the metal rod.
Hang
I use this on a regular basis, and I find this was a very useful project. Maybe a smaller set up with a single rod may allow me to hand a firearm in a useful location. But that is up to your imagination.
I will tell you right now, a homemade chlorine battery is not going to be as cost effective as commercial batteries. In the nanny state it is almost impossible to get pure enough chemicals to really experiment. However, I think it is important for the sustainable power types to understand what is going on within their system. This allows them to make informed decisions when they buy their batteries.
In a true grid down collapse, i.e. Mad Max scenario, the ability to make batteries from scrounged materials may come in handy. Now before you get too excited, if you get one volt per battery cell you are doing extremely well.
It will take many of these cells to get any usable energy. This is not a cost effective way to power your home.
In the video we make a battery using a mason jar, copper, aluminum, and chlorine bleach.
Basically, any two different kinds of metal can be placed in a conducting solution and you get a battery. In some schools they still teach an experiment that involves inserting copper and zinc strips into a lemon or a potato to make a battery.
Once you get the basic chemistry down, feel free to experiment. I have seen instructions for making large cells from aluminum soda cans riveted together and inserted into long PVC pipes. Right now I am experimenting with PVC pipe, grounding rod, and aluminum pipe.
If you want to see the procedure to make a chlorine battery, please watch the video.
As promised in the video, this article will discuss the theory of batteries in a little more detail.
This is just a quick down and dirty – if you want more information, you can do an internet search for the following battery types:
Edison Battery (Nickel Iron)
Acid, Copper, Zinc
Salt, Copper, Zinc
Air, Copper, Zinc
Acid, Copper, aluminum
Salt, Copper, aluminum
Air, Copper, aluminum
The Chemistry in a Nutshell.
Metal atoms are held together by electrical attractions between the nuclei and the electrons around the atoms.
When you place a strip of metal in a glass of water, the water molecules interact with the metal atoms on the surface of the strip. Water molecules are polar, meaning the one side is slightly positive, and the other side is slightly negative. This is because the two hydrogen atoms are not on opposite sides of the oxygen atom, but are instead about 105° apart. The hydrogen side is positive, and the oxygen side is negative.
At the location where the water and metal meet, some of the metal atoms are attracted to the negative side of the water molecules. This attraction allows the metal atom to leave one or more of its electrons behind in the metal strip, and others to move into the water.
Because of this movement of electrons a metal atom is left with a very small negative electric charge. This tiny charge does not pull very much on the metal ion that has left the strip. But since there are huge numbers of atoms at the surface of the metal strip, and an enormous number of metal ions are in the water at any given time the metal strip ends up with a slight negative charge.
Some metals hold on to their atoms more tightly than others.
This means that some metal strips will become more negative when placed in water than others do.
If one metal strip has more extra electrons than another strip of a dissimilar metal, the extra electrons will flow from the first strip to the second, until they both have the same charge and equal each other out. However, before the electrons can flow from one strip to the other, they need a conductive path.
We give them that path when we connect two strips of different metals with a wire. The electrons then flow through that wire, creating an electric current.
Acid Batteries (we will use copper and zinc as an example)
In the case of the copper and zinc strips, the copper holds onto its atoms more strongly than the zinc does. That means the zinc strip is more negative than the copper strip. The electrons will flow from the zinc to the copper.
When the forces are eventually balanced, the copper strip ends up with more electrons than the zinc strip. The zinc strip now has fewer electrons, and it cannot attract the zinc ions back to the strip.
If our battery just had water in it that would be the end of the battery. This battery has water plus an acid. An acid has an easily detached hydrogen ion. (in the video I mention about ionic solutions). Hydrogen ions are positive, and the remaining part of the acid becomes negative when it loses the hydrogen ion. In a battery made with soda (phosphoric acid) you would end up with phosphate ions – in a vinegar battery (acetic acid) you would have acetate ions left.
When all of those positively charged zinc ions bump into those negatively charged phosphate/acetate or other acid ions the phosphate ion is more strongly attracted to the zinc ion than to the hydrogen ion.
The positively charged hydrogen ion is attracted to the copper strip
The positively charged hydrogen ion is attracted to the copper strip, because the copper strip has the extra electrons, and is thus negative (opposite charges attract).
The hydrogen ions attract the electrons from the copper, and become neutral hydrogen atoms. These join up in pairs to become hydrogen molecules, and form bubbles on the copper strip. Eventually the bubbles become big enough to float up to the surface and leave the system entirely. (which is why you vent batteries to keep the explosive hydrogen from collecting)
Now the copper strip no longer has the extra electrons. It attracts more from the zinc strip through the connecting wire, as it did when the wire was first connected.
The copper ions next to the copper strip are not as attracted to the strip as they were before. The hydrogen ions keep taking the electrons that attracted the copper ions. So those ions are free to move through the liquid.
At the zinc strip, zinc ions are being removed, leaving extra electrons. Some of those electrons travel through the wire to the copper strip. But some of them encounter the copper ions that happen to bump into the zinc strip. Those ions grab the electrons, and become copper atoms. We can see those atoms build up on the zinc strip. They look like a black film, because the oxygen in the water combines with the copper to form black copper oxide. (Electroplating anyone….)
Eventually, all of the zinc is eaten up, and the copper and copper oxide falls into a pile beneath where the zinc strip used to be. The battery is now dead, and no more electrons flow through the wire. If there was not a lot of acid in the water, the acid may have been used up first – leaving the metal. (int the video we mention this by saying the stronger the bleach solution the stronger the battery but the shorter time it will last)
Salt Batteries (Air Batteries)
When you use a salt solution instead of acid in the water you have a different chemistry.
Salt breaks up in water to make positive sodium ions and negative chloride ions. These ions reduce the energy needed for water to split into hydroxide ions (OH-) and hydrogen ions H+ (the hydrogen ions quickly find another water molecule and create hydronium ions, H3O+).
At the zinc strip, the zinc ion combines with four hydroxide ions to form one ion of zincate (Zn(OH)42-), leaving two electrons behind on the zinc strip. The chlorine ions from the salt then combine with the hydronium ions leftover when the hydroxide ions were taken away by the zinc, and form hydrochloric acid.
Over on the copper strip, four electrons combine with oxygen dissolved in the water and two molecules of water to form four hydroxide ions. The sodium ions from the salt combine with these hydroxide ions to make sodium hydroxide. (This is the chemistry behind the 12 volt chlorine generator from an earlier video)
The hydrochloric acid and the sodium hydroxide combine back into salt. So the salt is merely in the picture as a way to move charges through the water. It is not used up.
We can summarize what happens at the zinc strip (called the anode)
Zn + 4OH- ⇒ Zn(OH)42- + 2e-
4Cl- + 4H2O ⇒ 4HCl + 4OH-
Zn(OH)42- ⇒ ZnO + H2O + 2OH-
At the copper strip (called the cathode) we have:
O2 + 2H2O + 4e- ⇒ 4OH-
4Na+ + 4OH-⇒ 4NaOH
A zinc-air battery gets its name from this reaction
The oxygen from the air is combining with the zinc.
The copper electrode is just there to conduct the electrons, and does not participate in the chemistry. It can be replaced with a carbon rod.
You may notice that after a short while, the oxygen in the battery is used up, and the current (and thus the brightness of the LED) begins to drop. Stirring the salt water helps to put more oxygen in the water, and the LED gets bright again.
They had the best explanation of what is happening and I took a lot of their information to write this as their way of explaining was a lot easier to understand when I contrasted the two. (I guess that means they understand the process much better than I do). If you have kids with an interest in science I recommend visiting their site.
First off, playing with steam – especially under pressure is a dangerous thing. Failure to use common sense and a healthy dose of caution can melt the flesh from your bones.
However, if channeled properly steam can transmit a lot of power and turn heat to torque.
I have already shown you my weed-eater conversion to a basic single acting steam engine, now I will show my DIY Steam Engine Boiler.
This portion of the project caused me the most sleepless nights and research. I fully expect you to do your own research if you plan to create your own boiler. As I am not there to ensure you take the necessary precautions, I cannot be held liable for your actions.
That being said I used a pressure cooker for my boiler. I did this because I know it is tested to the pressures I plan on using for my boiler.
Start with a Pressure Cooker
I flirted briefly with a building firetube boiler. However, I feel much careful using something that was designed and constructed to boil water under pressure.
My pressure cooker has a pressure release that is designed to rupture if the pressure gets to high. If it ever goes off cut the heat immediately and get AWAY.
The pressure cooker has a pressure gauge on it also. The Agricultural extension office will test your gauge to ensure it is accurate. This calibration should be done annually for food preservation. I would suggest you get it checked BEFORE you modify your boiler. They will not test it with a roll of copper pipe coming out the end. They may even call the revenuer’s thinking you have built a still…
By the way, my boiler is aluminum, and that reacts with alcohol so my steam boiler is in no shape, form, or fashion an alcohol distillation device.
Replace the Pressure Weight
The other thing your pressure cooker should have on it is a weight of some kind to let steam out during the cooking process. This is the only thing of the three you should mess with. I used some tools and unscrewed it from the cooker lid. I replaced the weight with a brass ¾ mpt fitting and used hard copper line to attach the fitting to a ball joint and a quick release coupling. (Before I use this for more than testing I will also plumb in a 150 psi safety valve).
From the quick release coupling I attached an air tool line – I looked into using soft copper ¼ tubing, and even though the burst pressures were 900psi which was plenty strong enough, for testing I wanted the flexibility of a hose.
Do Not Overfill
When filling the pressure cooker/boiler do not overfill it, don’t go more than 1/3 full or you could have dangerous overpressure. Believe me just a small amount of water will run weed eater steam conversion a long time, especially considering this is something you cannot fire and forget. If you have heat to your boiler you HAVE to be present at all times.
In Conclusion
So in closing, a pressure cooker makes a pretty decent steam boiler, but you have to take into consideration the strength of all the components and realize that you are dealing with extremer heat and pressure, and if a failure occurs it will be at the weakest link. You have to think through the process and ensure that precautions are taken to keep that weakest link in a safe place.
Please watch the video, as it will explain things a lot better, as well as show the engine working.
