How to Build a DIY Steam Boiler

How to Build a DIY Steam Boiler

 

DIY Steam Engine Boiler
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First off, playing with steam – especially under pressure is a dangerous thing. Failure to use common sense and a healthy dose of caution can melt the flesh from your bones.

However, if channeled properly steam can transmit a lot of power and turn heat to torque.
I have already shown you my weed-eater conversion to a basic single acting steam engine, now I will show my DIY Steam Engine Boiler.

This portion of the project caused me the most sleepless nights and research.  I fully expect you to do your own research if you plan to create your own boiler. As I am not there to ensure you take the necessary precautions, I cannot be held liable for your actions.

That being said I used a pressure cooker for my boiler. I did this because I know it is tested to the pressures I plan on using for my boiler.

Start with a Pressure Cooker

I flirted briefly with a building firetube boiler.  However, I feel much careful using something that was designed and constructed to boil water under pressure.

My pressure cooker has a pressure release that is designed to rupture  if the pressure gets to high.  If it ever goes off cut the heat immediately and get AWAY.

The pressure cooker has a pressure gauge on it also. The Agricultural extension office will test your gauge to ensure it is accurate.  This calibration should be done annually for food preservation.  I would suggest you get it checked BEFORE you modify your boiler.  They will not test it with a roll of copper pipe coming out the end. They may even call the revenuer’s thinking you have built a still…

By the way, my boiler is aluminum, and that reacts with alcohol so my steam boiler is in no shape, form, or fashion an alcohol distillation device.

Replace the Pressure Weight

The other thing your pressure cooker should have on it is a weight of some kind to let steam out during the cooking process. This is the only thing of the three you should mess with. I used some tools and unscrewed it from the cooker lid. I replaced the weight with a brass ¾ mpt fitting and used hard copper line to attach the fitting to a ball joint and a quick release coupling. (Before I use this for more than testing I will also plumb in a 150 psi safety valve).

From the quick release coupling I attached an air tool line – I looked into using soft copper ¼ tubing, and even though the burst pressures were 900psi which was plenty strong enough, for testing I wanted the flexibility of a hose.

Do Not Overfill

When filling the pressure cooker/boiler do not overfill it, don’t go more than 1/3 full or you could have dangerous overpressure. Believe me just a small amount of water will run weed eater steam conversion a long time, especially considering this is something you cannot fire and forget. If you have heat to your boiler you HAVE to be present at all times.

In Conclusion

So in closing, a pressure cooker makes a pretty decent steam boiler, but you have to take into consideration the strength of all the components and realize that you are dealing with extremer heat and pressure, and if a failure occurs it will be at the weakest link. You have to think through the process and ensure that precautions are taken to keep that weakest link in a safe place.

Please watch the video, as it will explain things a lot better, as well as show the engine working.

How to Stencil Ammunition Cans for Ammo Storage

How to Stencil Ammunition Cans for Ammo Storage

 

How to Stencil Ammunition Cans for Ammo Storage
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The other day I showed you how I removed the markings from old surplus military ammo cans. Today I will show you how we went about stenciling ammunition cans with our own markings.

As I scoured the internet for options I found that stenciling ammo cans was the most popular by far, and I even found a guy that will custom cut stencils. The cost was reasonable – about 2 dollars a stencil, but I decided to try my hand at cutting them. I got some clear plastic, a hobby knife, and a printout of the words I wanted to paint on my cans. Let’s just say this was a fail.

Next I tried to get a friend of mine with a vinyl scrapbooking stencil cutter. My idea was to resale common stencils like 5.56 and .40 S&W. My powers of persuasion were not powerful enough to get the stencils in bulk.

Next I just went to the local hobby store and bought some stencils.  Spray-paint and stencils never work well for me and after turning my workbench a nice shade of yellow I threw the stencils in a box.

I then found that the military STAMPS the lot number – which makes a lot of sense. I then bought some rib type stamps, a stamp holder, pad, and yellow ink and decided to stamp my own cans.

½ letters work fine and you can get about 23 characters a foot
I chose ¼ letters so I could get more lettering on the locking end of my can (If I did it again I would stick with ½ inch) ¼ inch stamps is about 43 characters a foot.
If you go bigger ¾ is about 16 characters a foot and 1inch letters get you about 14 characters a foot.

Some Common Dimensions

30 CAL AMMO CAN is 10″ x 7″ x 3
50 CAL AMMO CAN is 11.5″x7″x6″
SAW BOX is 12″ X 6 3/4″ X 8 1/2″
20 MM AMMO is 18 3/4 X 8 1/4 X 14 1/4
81 MM MORTAR BOX is 14 1/2 X 5 1/2 X 22 1/2

My smaller cans I use for cast bullets so I stamped them “CAST and the caliber”.  I use another for casting supplies so I labeled it “CASTING SUPPLIES”

For my 50 caliber cans I labeled them the following way:

800 ROUNDS
CALIBER and BULLET TYPE
BOXED or BULK
RELOADS or COMMERCIAL

Stamping is easier for me than painting, and mistakes were easier to clean up.
But my pad was too large – I wanted to get a lot of room for letters, but ended up wishing I would have gotten a much smaller pad to make it easier to use even pressure.

My letters were too small. They were just right for the ends, but could have been a lot bigger on the sides.

But my biggest learning curve was my ink. I wanted to use yellow like the original cans, but high quality yellow ink was expensive so I did not buy what I needed and the ink I got did not adhere evenly and was hard to see.

Next time I am going to use a high quality white ink.

I know that there are easier ways of marking your ammo cans – one guy said he colors in his stencils with a white grease pencil – others use tape and sharpies. Whatever works for you. But personally while this does not follow K.I.S.S. principles to the letter, I like how it turned out, and since I put a lot of effort into making good rounds, I wanted to store them in nice boxes.