How to Build DIY Akro Bin Rail for Simple Workshop Organization

How to Build DIY Akro Bin Rail

 

Workshop Organizer
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Here is the link for the instructables.com post that instigated this DIY akro bin rail project.

When I saw this workshop organizer project in my inbox I knew I had to try it.  I had just inherited quite a few acro bins, and when added to the ones I already had, I needed a place to store them.  Add in the fact that my spare parts box was full of nuts bolts and nails, and that it was taking an unreasonably long time to find the right parts when I needed them I had to do something.

In the instructuctable Mike Begley used aluminum flashing, but I found a piece of plastic molding first, and my ADD made me stop looking so I could get home and nail this thing to the wall.

I had a weird corner in my shop that left me about a foot of wasted space, so I cut the 8 ft section of molding into 8 sections and stapled them to the wall.

The lip of each bin clips neatly into the channel of the molding and holds them rather securely.  I do worry about the plastic breaking under extreme weight, but as long as I don’t put undo stress on the strips it should hold.  And if it does break, I get an excuse to buy a chop saw to cut aluminum flashing.

All in all I am very happy with my DIY Akro Bin Rail.

* Update

It has been more that 7 years since I made this Akro Bin wall, and it is still going strong.  I haven’t had a problem with the plastic railing like I imagined I would.  However, to be fair, I don’t really take the bins on an off the wall as I thought I would either.

 

How to Make an Easy Tin Can Stove

How to Make an Easy Tin Can Stove

 

How to Make an Easy Tin Can Stove
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Today we are going to show you how to make a tin can stove, this type of stove has been around about as long as tin cans have been created, but it reached its peak of popularity during the great depression.  Now its popularity is mostly with frugal backpackers and girl scouts, as a matter of fact, the majority of comments I have gotten were from former scouts telling me how hot this stove can get…

I first learned about this stove at a vacation bible school camp at the Tennessee Baptist Children’s home in the 80’s, and while this was a fun project, I never thought much about it until I began chronicling my journey to learn how to improvise, adapt, and overcome in a catastrophic disaster situation.

Personally, I feel that this stove has some pretty severe limitations, its extremely hot, has little in the way of regulating heat, and its heating surface is small.  However, as a way to begin to find new ways of using old things, up-cycling, or making a MacGyverism, this stove is a good way of exercising your mind.

That being said, here’s How to Make a Tin Can Stove

Materials:

  • #10 can (empty of course)
  • Multiple tuna cans (also empty)
  • Cardboard (lots of strips as wide as the tuna can is tall, you’ll need a lot more strips than you think.)
  • Paraffin Wax blocks
  • Wick (I did not include this in my video, but it makes lighting the tuna cans a lot easier.)

Tools:

  • Tin Snips
  • Can opener
  • Double boiler
  • Matches
  • Razor or study scissors for culling cardboard
  • Gloves and other appropriate safety equipment

Procedure for stove:

  1. Using your can opener, punch air holes around closed end of can.  (a tip from MM in Jackson – don’t punch any air holes in the side you will have toward you, so that smoke doesn’t blow toward you)
  2. Using tin snips cut a rectangle opening at open end of can, large enough to allow a burning tuna can to be pushed into, and pulled out of the stove.

Optional: use a metal coat hanger to fashion a damper on the stove opening using the scrap metal from cutting your opening

Procedure for tuna can burner:

  1. Cut cardboard long cardboard strips as wide as your tuna can in tall.
  2. Tightly roll the strips into a small spiral.
    1. A piece of cotton wick inserted into the center of the cardboard helps in lighting the burner later.
    2. If you need to add more strips, overlap the end of the strip coming off the spiral with a new piece of cardboard so that it stays together on the roll.
  3. Insert the spiral into the tuna can.  This works best if the spiral is slightly larger than the can so that you must force it to fit.  The more corrugated cardboard you can force into the can, the less wax you will need, and the fire will burn longer and hotter.
    1. If needed, you can force additional cardboard strips between the can and the spiral of cardboard.  This is not easy, but it makes everything work better later.
  4. Once you have made as many burners as your hands can stand (I can make about 6 before my arthritis makes me stop), melt the wax using a double boiler.
    1. You should never heat wax over a direct source of heat, as it may flame up.  If you do not have a double boiler, use a large pot of water, with a smaller pot nested inside.  The wax is placed in the small pot and is melted by the regulated heat of the water instead of the heat from the stove eye.  This is much safer.
  5. Once the wax is melted, line the tuna cans up side by side and carefully fill them with wax.  It takes a surprising amount of wax to fill the cans, especially if you did not fully pack the cans with cardboard.
  6. Let wax cool.

Procedure for using stove:

  1. Only use this stove outdoors, it is burns hot and with a lot of smoke.
  2. Place the stove on site that will not burn or be damaged by high heat.
  3. Light the tuna can burner and as soon as it flames place it inside the stove.
  4. It will only take a few seconds for the closed end of the can to reach cooking temperature, so don’t touch it once the burner is inside (I learned this the hard way).
  5. Using a skillet is best, but you can cook things like hamburgers directly on the stove.  It is too hot to cook things like eggs.
  6. Once cooking is complete, you can remove the stove and extinguish the burner.
  7. I flip the burner upside down and smother the flame so I can reuse the can, but you could smother it with dirt.  Don’t douse it with water, or the hot wax may explode with some force and spray you with hot wax.

 

How to Build a Homemade Kydex Press

 

Kydex Press
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Being a carry permit holder I have a thing for gun holsters, being a big guy, I spend a lot of time baking sure that my holsters are comfortable and work well with the clothing I wear. Something I have noticed “gun guys” is that we all have a box of old holsters. The majority of holsters I use on a daily basis are either Kydex or combination’s of both leather and Kydex.

That is no surprise when you look at the benefits of Kydex. Its cheap, rugged, non-marring of your gun’s finish, moldable for good retention, smooth for a consistent draw, and does not react to normal temperatures or gun solvents or oils.

You Need a Press to Work with Kydex

If you want to experiment with kydex you need a kydex press – like all my projects, I wanted something cheap and simple to test out before I invested in quality tools – this post’s kydex press is just such a tool.

Being a DIY enthusiast, it did not take me long to want to try my hand at molding Kydex. For those of you that do not know, Kydex is the trade name for a propriety thermoplastic sheet. It’s rigid and strong, but when heated it becomes pliable. Kydex does not have a memory, so that once it has cooled; it retains the shape it was molded to fit. Kydex is not the only plastic compound that has this property.  However, what makes Kydex so useful is that unlike plastics, Kydex doesn’t off gas toxic fumes at forming temperatures.

Tools to Form Kydex

Most people use either an oven or a heat gun. Often I use a goodwill toaster oven.  It really depends on the thickness of the Kydex your working with.  Also the size of the piece your molding will impact on your heat source. Normally I find the oven works best to begin the project, and I use a heat gun to spot heat for adjustments.

Besides a heat source, gloves, and trimming tools, one of the most basic tools to mold Kydex is a press. A Kydex press normally costs from $80 to $180 depending on size, but it is a simple tool that I decided to make one myself.

Simple Homemade Kydex Press

At its simplest a Kydex press is a rigid board with a thick piece of foam glued to it as a base, with top made the same way. The heated Kydex is wrapped around whatever it will sheathe, and then sandwiched between the two pieces and then clamped or weighted heavily until the plastic cools.

I went a little more complicated, as I put a set of hinges to connect the top and bottom pieces. I connected them this way because I plan on making knife sheaths.  At least until I got enough skill to try more complicated gun holsters.  Also, by being connected, it gives me more leverage for clamping.

If I was making a press for larger items like gun holsters I would make modifications.  Either I would not add a hinge, or I would make the hinge adjustable.