This video was my entry into the 2011 Zombie Invitational. The premise is that we are in the beginning of a zombie apocalypse and I have to show the contents of my bug out bag and explain my rational. Obviously the is not my real BoB.
In case you can’t tell I am employing a but of snark – I make fun of the CDC’s zombie plan, talk smack about my boss blocking zombie squad from the work computers, make fun of people whose disaster plan is to live off of the charity of those they know have prepared, and take a pot shot at my mother in law – who, even though she doesn’t like me much, is pretty good to me. She always texts me (5 or 6 times) the day of my anniversary, valentine’s day, and Genny’s birthday.
I wish my wife thought I was funny, but when I try to make jokes she looks at me funny. As she worked the camera taping the 2011 zombie invitational video she had that look. I am surprised she has not divorced me yet. Especially after my video on her leaving me….
I had a lot of fun shooting this video. I hope you have fun watching it.
This post shows how to make Dakin’s Solution, which is a great homemade antiseptic.
Dakin’s solution is an antiseptic solution containing sodium hypochlorite (Common Household Bleach) and water. It was first developed during World War I to treat infected wounds.
Dakin’s solution is not the only antiseptic that can be made at home. As there are several stronger germicidal solutions available, however many of these contain either carbolic acid (phenol) or iodine to prevent infection. Which unfortunately means they either damage living cells or lose their potency in the presence of blood serum.
Dakin’s solution does not damage living cells; its solvent action on dead cells hastens the separation of dead from living tissue.
Dakin’s solution is easy to make, and is prepared by passing chlorine into a solution of sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate.
Unfortunately, the solution is unstable and cannot be stored more than a few days.
It is used by periodical flooding of an entire wound surface with the solution.
As always, I am not a doctor, and you should research anything you find on line so you are assured of its use and the accuracy of the material presented.
Precautions:
• Keep out of the reach of children.
• Do not swallow it if used as a mouth wash,
• Do not use longer than one week.
• Obviously you should not use this solution if you are allergic to any of the ingredients.
• Stop use of the solution if your condition worsens, or a rash or any other reaction develops.
Call Your Doctor If You Have:
• Pain or burning sensation
• Rash or itching
• Redness of skin
• Swelling, hives or blisters
• Signs or symptoms of wound infection
Storage:
• Keep the solution stored at room temperature.
• Cover jar with aluminum foil to protect it from light.
• Be sure the jar lid is tight for storing.
Cleanliness is very important to this procedure, sterilize everything, and keep your hands clean. Remember the maxim: you cannot sterilize what is not clean
Ingredients:
Sodium hypochlorite solution 5.25% (Clorox® or similar household bleach). Be sure to purchase unscented bleach. Do not use ultra bleach products it is more concentrated and thicker.
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)
Tap Water
Equipment:
Clean pan with lid
Sterile measuring cup and spoons
Sterile jar with sterile lid (see above)
Procedures:
Measure out 32 ounces (4 cups) of tap water. Pour into the clean pan.
Boil water for 15 minutes with the lid on the pan. Remove from heat.
Using a sterile measuring spoon, add ½ teaspoonful of baking soda to the boiled water.
Add Bleach per chart below to achieve differing strengths of solution.
Place the solution in a sterile jar. Close it tightly with the sterile lid.
Label the jar with the date and time you made the solution
Throw away any unused portion 48 hours after opening. Unopened jars can be stored for one month after you have prepared them
Strength of Solution is dependent on how much Bleach to water.
These precepts are my guide stones. They are always in the back of my mind and help me make decisions and operate consistently. They are not in any order except the first and the last. These are my ideals. My precepts work for me, I share them with the hope they help you too.
As always, take what works, discard what doesn’t – I am not a self proclaimed guru that will hunt you down for disagreement.
I am posting one precept a week as a talking point. It is my hope to have some lively comments and conversations. Also I think each concept is important in its own right and I don’t want any individual idea to be drowned out by a “cooler” concept.So here is my first and foremost Precept:
I am a Christian, so I do not have to live in fear of death.
Life may be hard and may end badly, but my future is assured.
These precepts are my creed, and having prepper precepts guides me when I face tough choices. A wise man once told me that when facing a moral problem, the right choice is usually the action you don’t want to take.
I am not a pollyanna person that is wishy washy or blindly follows rules, heck I have a little rebellious streak and love to know the WHY of rules, but I do respect and understand the need for law and know how vital it is for a society to have a moral code.
By knowing what I believe in you can know how I will act. This is very important in times of stress. If you don’t want to read these precepts one by one, the completed list can be found here: Completed 27 Prepper Precepts.
When I figured out how to remove stencils from ammo cans, I wished I had learned it earlier. Up until this point I had repainted my cans to cover the markings. Now I can simply remove the stencils and keep the nice OD green paint.
Want to Store Reloads in Labeled Ammo Cans?
I have a few thousand reloads stored in various methods around my shop . Soon I got tired of seeing ice cream buckets full of bulk ammo sitting around. To fix this, I ordered several Styrofoam repack kits for my pistol ammo. Next, I packed the rounds neatly into little white 50 round boxes. After that, I wanted to have a good way to store them.
Luckily, I have several assorted military surplus ammo cans lying about. I find it interesting that 4 boxes of pistol ammunition will fit in the bottom of an .50 ammo can. Those layers of 200 rounds can be stacked 4 deep. This means in a single .50 caliber can I can securely store 800 pistol rounds.
My problem is that I have a lot more than .38 special rounds, and since all the ammo cans are marked with military stampings they all look alike. This caused me to start an internet search to find an easy way to mark military ammo cans.
You Have to Remove Markings Before You Can Re-Label
However before I could paint my cans, I had to remove markings from ammo cans. Most people tend to either sand and repaint their cans, or just paint over the markings with spray paint. That is the simplest solution, however, matching paint colors as you repaint several cans can be a problem, plus the cost of paint, and the fact that I wanted to do it a different way led me to discover that the markings are not painted on with stencils they are stamped on with ink.
You would be surprised at how easy some acetone paint remover (I used fingernail polish remover) and a rag will lift the stencils off the cans. The only thing you need to worry about is that with enough scrubbing you might be able to lift some green paint off also. In my experience this did not happen – but I imagine it could.
Once I removed all the markings and let the paint thinner dry I was ready for the next part which was actually marking the cans – Stay tuned for how I actually marked the cans…
This post might not be best called how to cut circles on a table saw, but rather, how not to. This is a dangerous method and I don’t recommend it, but sometimes you may need this method and if you choose to use it be well aware of how dangerous it is.
I am by no means a skilled woodworker. I wish I was as both my Grandfathers were highly skilled in the construction trade, but as a kid I was more interested in goofing off. If you watch my video below, you can tell that some of my safety procedures are lacking, so please don’t imitate me, cutting off a finger constitutes a bad day.
Dangerous, But Useful When Needed
HOWEVER, the technique I show is useful, and if you have your safety guards in place on your table saw, and use a better sliding table you can accomplish the same thing much safer.
I needed to cut some circles so I could build my Gingery forge, and my shop is very limited with tools so I needed to find a work around. After a little internet research and looking into my old Audel’s books I discovered a solution. You can cut circles from squares using a table saw. All you need is a sliding table with a pivot point for a square of wood sized for your circle.
Make a Slide Table
My table saw is old and very inexpensive, so I had to make a sliding table by cutting down two pieces of 1×2 to act as runners. I nailed a piece of wood across the runners as they sat in the slots along side my blade. I then turned on the saw and cut about a third of the way through the center board. Now I have a very cheap sliding table.
Once that is done to cut a circle you need a square of wood the size you want for the finished circle. If you want a 12 inch diameter circle you need a 12 inch square block of wood. Insert a pivot pin in your sliding table the same distance away from your blade as the radius of the circle. So for a 12 inch circle, drive a nail 6 inches away from the cut in your sliding table. This pivot point should be on one side of the blade (imagine a line from your pivot point to the cut you made in the table – the line should intersect perpendicular to the cut.)
Cut Corners (Literally)
Pound the center of your wood square onto your pivot point and ensure that it rotates freely.
Line up your square so that you will cut off one corner of the square. Turn on the saw and slide the table to the blade and cut off each corner of your square.
Once you have cut those corners, cut off the 8 new corners, then the 16 after that. With each cut you will have a more rounded shape. Depending on the size of the wood, and your blade, soon you will be able to rotate the piece into the blade and actually trim it round. Just make sure you keep your fingers well away from the blade and don’t rush.
You will be amazed at how easy this is to do. If you have any other cool shop tricks, please feel free to make a comment. My next trick will most likely involve turning a drill press into a lathe.
