How to Replace A Glock Trigger to Make it Smooth

 

Glock Smooth Trigger Replacement
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I do not believe in modifying carry guns outside of factory specifications. A small part of this is because of liability, but mostly it is because of the unknown consequences to reliability.

A firearm is a machine, and the weight of the parts of the gun are factored in with drag, inertia, spring weight, type of ammunition, and hundreds of other factors to create a gun that functions with the desired ratio or accuracy and reliability.

Every part has to work together and when you replace a part you are piddling with the whole. Tiny tolerances add up – and when you replace many parts you may end up with an unreliable gun. Since the most important factor in choosing a defensive handgun is reliability I don’t risk compounding tolerances.

The Smooth Trigger Was What Glock Designed

However, the modification in todays post is actually bringing the gun back to manufacturer’s specifications. When Gaston Glock created his pistol he built it with a smooth faced trigger, but due to some unfathomable reason the ATF has import points and for a gun to able to be imported it has to have enough points. The ATF considers a smooth trigger to be a combat trigger, and a ridged trigger to be a target trigger.

A full sized Glock has enough points to be imported with the original trigger, but the compact and sub-compact guns were one point short. Therefore Glock has to make a target trigger to meet the red tape.

Luckily, many (if not most) of Glock parts are interchangeable, and if you want a smooth trigger for your compact or sub compact all you need to do (in most cases) is to order the trigger from the full size gun in your caliber.

I have a Glock 19, so to get a smooth trigger I just ordered the Glock 17 trigger and swapped them.  It only cost me a few dollars and a couple minutes to change the feel of my trigger pull.

Now this does nothing to change the weight, take up, or break of the action.

If only changes the feel of the trigger on your finger. However if you are going to a high round count school where you will spend 8 hours a day on the range shooting hundreds or thousands of rounds you will feel a difference, and you will be thankful you made the switch. Other than that it is really a personal preference thing and just something nice to know.

The specifics of how to do this can be found here.

Dillon Square Deal B Reloader Review

 

Gear Review: Dillon Square Deal B Reloader
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There are a lot of very good tutorials online about reloading, and Dillon presses in particular, but I wanted to take a couple minutes to tell you about my experience with the Dillon Square Deal B press.

First off, this is a relatively inexpensive progressive press (especially when compared to other Dillon Presses), it costs more than many single stage presses, but at around $350 it gives you the ability to reload a lot of rounds in a reasonable amount of time.

However, the Square Deal B press is a pistol only press, and uses a special set of proprietary dies. This makes the press easy to use, but it prevents you from switching dies from one press to another, or reloading anything other than common pistol rounds.

Get Strong Mounts

When looking at this press, I would definitely recommend purchasing the strong mounts. I have used this press as it comes out of the box, and with the addition of the mounts, and the mounts make a much sturdier platform.

Some things I have done that are not factory standard were to bolt a set of Allen keys on the strong mount, so that when I need to make adjustments to the press, I have the tools well at hand. Dillon makes a pretty set of tools dyed to match the press, but I just used a cheap set from the hardware store.

I also found someone on ebay that uses and injection molding machine to make a plastic knob that press fits onto the bolt head that adjusts the amount of powder inserted into the casing. This makes it easy to adjust powder levels without tools, and the wings give a visual reference point. I strongly suggest looking these up.

Don’t Start with a Progressive Press.

I would also suggest two things:

  • Don’t buy a progressive press as your first press. There is just too much going on at the same time. Learn on a single stage press so you get a good feel for the process. I did not do this, and as my story in the beginning of the video illustrates, I made a mistake (and blew up two revolvers).
  • Work slow.  Dillon recommends weighing every 10th round for consistency. This is important.

The powder measure on the Dillon press is very good, but it is finicky with some powders. It does not work as well with flake type powders as it does with other powder types. When I use power pistol powder, I get inconsistent powder charges and have to weigh much more often than every 10.

Lastly I would recommend anyone new to reloading (especially those new to Dillion presses) to visit Brian Enos’s forums  in addition to being a top tier shooter, Brian is a Dillion dealer, and has some really top shelf advice about Dillion presses – especially in the area of choosing the right press for your specific need.

How to Bore Sight a Rifle the Old Fashioned Way

How to Bore Sight a Rifle the Old Fashioned Way

 

Old School Rifle Boresighting
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I like gadgets and things that make life easier, BUT – I think it is vital that we don’t loose the ability to perform essential tasks without the aid of specialized equipment.

Today we will describe the “old school” method of rifle boresighting that allows you to sight in your rifle without the aid of a laser bore-sighter, collimator, or other equipment.

This is a very simple procedure to do.  However, you need a bolt action rifle that has a removable bolt.

How to Boresight a Rifle

  • Simply mount your scope and center the cross-hairs.
  • Ensure that it is level and balanced on the rifle.
  • Securely mount your rifle on a bench.  You can use a vice.  However, in the video I simply used the rifle’s bipod and some sandbags. It is essential that the rifle not move as you perform the sighting in procedure.
  • Remove the barrel and look through it.
  • Center the bore of the gun on a target set at the range you want to sight the rifle to.
  • If the rifle is securely held, and the bore centered on your target, all you need to do is to move up to your sight.  Center your scope reticle on the center of the target.

This should get your first shot on paper, and if care is taken, it should be pretty close.

Hope this is helpful.  If you want to see the best rifle scope in 2016 I have included a link.

How to Easily Disassemble a Glock Magazine

How to Easily Disassemble a Glock Magazine

 

Shooting: Glock Magazine Disassembly Tip
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Not everyone cleans their pistol magazines, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need attention. Personally, I used to neglect my pistol magazines.  This was because I had a hard time getting the baseplates off of my Glock magazines.

This post shows an easy trick to help with Glock Magazine Disassembly

They have a detent button in the center of the baseplate.    Once depressed, the plate is “supposed” to slide off – unfortunately I never have it that simple.

Luckily, I was shown a way that makes disassembling a Glock magazine very simple.

Use the Glock Armorer’s Tool!

  • Insert the tool all the way in until it stops at the handle.
  • Push the tool (with the baseplate sliding) forward. You want to leverage the plate forward using the handle of the Glock tool.
  • Unless you like searching for parts or getting smacked in the face by a flying spring, use your hand to cover the bottom of the magazine before you slide the baseplate completely off.

This does take some practice, but believe me, once you understand how to take the magazines apart using a punch you will find the process much easier.  I have never been able to consistently get the mags apart without using this tip.

Magazine Wear Tip

Magazine Wear Tip
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Firearm magazines are the weakest link in the gun reliability formula. Watch for magazine wear and when you see it you know they need to be replaced.

In the video below we take a set of calipers to show how a magazine flexes as it is loaded and unloaded. This shows that there is a potential for fatigue.

I know that as I started in firearms I was taught that spring wear meant that I should not keep magazines fully loaded for long term. This translated to my having two sets of magazines and quarterly I would rotate my mags.

However, after talking to people that make magazines for a living, I was told that it is not the compression that causes magazine wear, but the repeated compression and decompression of the springs. I have heard of 1911 mags being found loaded, and that after 40 years of loaded storage functioning properly.

Just something to think about, and you may want to consider having some new mags stored or at least some new springs and followers because if the mags do not function then all you have is an awkwardly loading single shot.

*Update:  At the current time, the rush to buy guns is low because we have a R in the White House.  Now is the time to buy all the gun stuff.  Buy now, stack deep.